Austria Travel Guide

Just like the Germany travel guide I posted, I figured it made sense to do the same for Austria now that I’ve written our trip recaps (here and here in case you missed them). So, here we go!

Where we stayed

Hotel am Dom! And we couldn’t recommend it more. The location was perfect – right in the heart of Old Town Salzburg, and was within walking distance to everything. In fact, there aren’t really cars in Old Town because the roads are so narrow.

The staff was extremely friendly and they held our bags all day on our check-out day, because our train wasn’t until 1:40 a.m. the following day. And the rooms were so clean and cute! I loved the wood beam ceiling and the rain head shower was ah-mazing. The beds were so comfortable, too. Definitely highly recommend staying here!

Where we ate/drank 

One thing to know about me is that I like variety with my food. So after spending four days eating essentially only German food, I was ready for something else so we ate Italian food in Salzburg twice. (And when I write about Italy, I’ll share the delicious Mexican restaurant we dined at.)

Trattoria da Pippo – GO HERE TO EAT! It’s right in the heart of Old Town and has the best pizza we had the whole trip.

Festung Hohensalzburg – If you’re venturing up to the top, you might as well stop at the cafe for a beer and soak in the view.

Älteste Bäckerei Salzburg – Literally translates to “the oldest bakery in Salzburg.” They must have been real confident naming the place when they opened in 1429. We grabbed breakfast-to-go and the danishes were divine.

Mühlradl – Located outside of Salzburg in the town of St. Gilgen, this small family-owned restaurant had some of the best German/Austrian food we’d had. Definitely worth stopping by for lunch (and the views!) if you’re nearby.

Seppo – An amazing quaint little wine bar right in the heart of Old Town. It was one of the few places open late at night and had a great vibe, even on a random Tuesday night.

What we did

Old Town – We walked around Old Town and explored the streets on our first day and I wouldn’t have changed a thing about that. We walked along the river and stumbled across Mozart’s birth place.

Festung Hohensalzburg – Worth the climb or euros to take the tram to the top just to see the amazing views of Salzburg.

Bob’s Tours – Kevin and I aren’t really tour people, so this was only one of two tours we did out of our entire two-week trip, but we could not recommend this one enough! They were friendly, easy to deal with (i.e. when you book the tour online for the wrong date… twice, but they still change your reservation without hassle), and we got to see a lot of Austria in one short day.

Pro Tips/Stray Observations

Everything in Salzburg closes early – shops, restaurants, bars, etc. It’s a small city (less than 150,000 people) and they don’t accommodate late schedules, so plan to eat early.

Take the public transportation here. Seriously the bus system was so easy to navigate and it was dirt cheap (I think one, maybe two, euro for a one-way ticket).

And while we’re on the subject of transportation… the drivers in Austria were insane.

Soak it all in. This city is unbelievably beautiful and the higher up you go, the better it looks because the Alps surrounding the town make it look unreal.

We spent a day and a half in Salzburg and I think it gave us plenty of time to not only see the city, but explore the areas right outside of it. Perfect amount of time for us!

Europe // Austria Part II

Part I of Salzburg can be found here. And here are parts I and II of Germany, where we were before Salzburg. 

After finishing our first night in Austria with a lovely traditional American meal of burgers, fries and beer (okay at least the beer was Austrian!) in bed, we woke up the next morning pretty early to catch our tour for the day.

First stop, though, was breakfast. We could have paid for breakfast in our hotel but it was expensive (can’t remember the price, but I know I remember thinking it was pricey for a hotel breakfast). Plus, we wanted to try something new so we found a bakery nearby.

I have no idea what I got but it was delicious. And also, a cafe Americano! That’s our version of regular ole coffee. 

Okay so our tour. We heard from two different friends of ours to book Bob’s Sound of Music tour. I know… but I’m not kidding.

It was a full day – from 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. – tour of not only Salzburg, but the lake district just south of the city. Ever since I saw this photo on Pinterest four years ago, I’ve wanted to visit Lake Hallstatt and this tour got me there, so I was sold.

I haven’t seen Sound of Music in years, and I don’t think Kevin ever has, but we still appreciated the tour a lot!

We started in the old town area of Salzburg, where we stayed, and made our way through and out of town. Our group was small – just six of us – and we had the most adorable tour guide, Sylvia. She was so friendly and you could tell how much she loved showing guests her country.

Our first stop was some building in Sound of Music (sorrrryyyy), but the landscape was so beautiful. Little did we know the sights we were about to see that day – this view was chump change compared to the rest.

We went to a bunch of other Sound of Music type places… for example, they told us this below photo was when the kids (kid?) sings “16 going on 17.” I really should have watched the movie before this tour…

Okay but really, the reason I wanted to go was to see the Austrian countryside and we decided this tour was the most efficient (read: cheapest) way to do that without renting a car and going on our own.

The drive was absolutely beautiful and before we knew it, we arrived at our first lake of the day. We stopped in the town St. Gilgen to overlook Wolfgangsee Lake.

Sylvia was amazing and made sure we all got the chance to take as many pictures as we wanted. Clearly she’d done this a time or two before.

Then she recommended we eat at this small family restaurant in town. Mühlradl had a patio overlooking the lake and beer on the menu, so we had to think real hard about taking Sylvia up on her recommendation.

I got the wurst with sauerkraut and spicy mustard (give me all the sauerkraut). It came with a side of potatoes and I hereby declared this the best meal I’d had thus far on the trip.

Kevin got something that I thought was weird, but turns out Tafelspitz is a very traditional Austrian meal and it was absolutely delicious.

We couldn’t leave without trying the homemade apple strudel, which was to die for.

Once we were stuffed, we headed back in the van and down to the lakefront to get a closer look.

So we thought Wolfgangsee lake was beautiful but then we arrived at the holy Mary of lakes…

Lake Hallstatt.

Yep. This exists. On earth. In real life. And I was there.

I can’t even explain its beauty so I’m just going to stop writing and post a lot of pictures.

We walked through the small town of Hallstatt – population: 800. Even saw a cute little waterfall up in the mountains!

Meanwhile, I did some house hunting for retirement. This one will do, honey.

We only had an hour or two in the town, but we could have stayed for days. That was the only downfall of a guided tour – only one of two tours we did the whole trip – and I almost wish we would have rented a car and stayed here for a day, or even a full night. But regardless, I’m grateful we got to see it at all!

Soon it was time to go to our third and final lake: Mondsee. Again, so beautiful but Hallstatt was both of our absolute favorites.

Oh, and we passed Red Bull’s HQ.

We ventured into the town of Mondsee to see a couple churches and do a bit of shopping. While we were there, it started hailing and you would have through Kevin saw the second coming. He ran outside to watch an Austrian hail storm. Meanwhile, I took videos, photos and snapchatted him to all our friends/family back home. #meteorologistwifeproblems

Our final stop of the tour was to the Mirabell Gardens. Apparently this was also shown in Sound of Music! Again, really should have watched the movie before the tour.

The gardens were so beautiful but at this point, it was starting to rain, we were hungry and frankly, kinda sick of seeing stuff. We just wanted to sit and relax because our day had been go-go-go.

We headed back to our hotel to change and happened to pass by Mozart’s birthplace. Had to clue we were staying a block away, so I’m glad someone pointed it out to us!

And we also saw the oldest continuously run restaurant in the world, established in 803. Mozart and apparently even Christopher Columbus dined here. We did not, but we stopped in for pictures!

It was probably around 7 or 8 p.m. at this point and we were just wandering the streets of Old Town Salzburg. You’d think by the looks of the below photo, it was 3 in the morning. Nope – just a typical Tuesday evening.

Thankfully this time, we learned our lesson from the night before and decided to eat “early” (8 p.m.). I wish, for the life of me, I wrote down the name of this restaurant and I kid you not, I just spent an hour Google Mapping the entire town of Old Town Salzburg and I can’t figure out where we ate. BUT, it wasn’t that good, so oh well.

It was a place that served Austrian, Italian and I think, Indian food. I can’t remember what I got here (again, wasn’t that good), but Kevin got some sort of pasta with salmon and we agreed his was the better meal that night.

(Sidebar: I brought a tiny notebook to write down restaurants and little tid bits from our trip along the way so I wouldn’t forget these things. Didn’t write a single thing down. Super helpful, Gab.)

Okay so anyways. After dinner, we went back to our hotel to charge our phones and change once more. You see, we decided it was a good idea to take a night train from Salzburg to Venice, Italy. It was perfect, you see! The train left Salzburg at 1:40 a.m. and we’d arrive in Venice at 8 a.m. We “splurged” on a sleeper cabin on the train so we’d wake up in Italy feeling super refreshed and energized.


We didn’t realize everything in Salzburg closed by 9 p.m. so we thought we were SOL and would have to just hang out at the train station all night. But when we were walking back from dinner we found a little wine bar that was open until midnight. And our hotel was kind enough to hold our luggage for us, even after we checked out earlier that day, because they knew our train was super late. The hotel let us use this one room to keep our luggage/change/freshen up/etc. – again, couldn’t recommend this hotel enough!

So instead of just sitting in the hotel for a few hours, we decided to leave our luggage there and go to Seppo, the wine bar we found earlier that night. It was so quaint – probably could hold 20 people max – and everyone was super friendly.

We were eavesdropping (my favorite past time) and quickly noticed these guys speaking German were trying to pick up these chicks from France, so they used English to communicate. I don’t know why, but we thought that was really interesting.

We downed a bottle of wine and turned it upside down, like you would in the states. Our waiter didn’t bat an eye and said it’s common to do that in Europe too. We didn’t even think that it might look weird (or rude?) to do that. Also thought that was funny.

Ah okay so the train. The night train. The infamous night train! Ready for this story? Great.

So we left the wine bar, picked up our luggage and took the last bus out of Old Town to the train station, which was just a quick 10-minute or so ride. We got to the train station around 11:30 so we still had two hours to kill. Prime people watching! The station was nice and had a waiting room to sit and charge your phone. I tried to sleep but the people watching was too good.

Eventually, 1:40 a.m. rolled around and we got on our train. We were tired and started to get sassy with one another over finding our car, especially when the one we thought we were supposed to go in was locked. Turns out, there were already people inside.

We knew when we booked the train we might have to share with two other people because we bought a four-person room, but I naively thought it wouldn’t be that crowded. WRONG.

The people in our room already were from Nigeria and spoke no English. They boarded the train in Vienna, so they had already been on for hours and were sound asleep. You can imagine the confusion/situation when they opened the door for us, and we tried to communicate we were also in their room.

And by the way, here’s the size of the room:

And here’s my 5’10” husband standing in the room to give you a sense of HOW FREAKING TINY IT WAS FOR FOUR HUMANS.

So as you can imagine, we got a solid zero hours of sleep that night. I assumed we’d have a space to change, brush our teeth, etc. but because we woke up our roommates from their slumber, we just hopped into bed with our jeans and shoes still on, and slept like that. Oh and we had no room for our suitcases so we slept with those too.

Here’s the size of the pillow – it actually looks large here but I promise you it was the size of my cheek.

In the middle of the night, at around 4:30 a.m., we heard loud banging on the door to our room. I think we actually might have been drifting off to sleep somehow, because we were really out of it by the wake-up. Turns out, we were on the border of Austria, Italy and Slovenia so they had to do a passport check. Kevin hands the guys our train tickets. #facepalm

We finally realized wtf was going on and Kevin dug our passports out of his handy money belt thing he wore on the inside of his jeans (seriously this was the best!). The passport guys were really nice but they were armed with automatic weapons so again, you can imagine our state of minds at this moment. All the confusion.

Eventually, we maybe once again drifted off to sleep and were woken up by the train people delivering our breakfast. Two stale rolls and a cup of cold coffee. YUM.

I really shouldn’t complain this much because it could have been a lot worse and we arrived safe and sound. The whole experience is something we laugh about now, but I can’t say we’ll be doing a night train again anytime soon.

And plus, we arrived to this beautiful view!